Today began with an early morning walk across Fontana Dam. I tried to fully appreciate the unremarkable paved flatness of the dam, knowing that would be the last level surface I would see for days. Once across, the trail began its uphill slant and, soon enough, climbed steeply toward Shuckstack Tower. Around two miles into the hike, I saw a mid-sized bear cross the trail about 30 yards ahead of me. I thought about trying to take a photo, but was sure the bear wouldn’t appreciate a selfie, so instead I loudly shouted “good morning!” and sent the bear on a dash through the woods. Many of the shelters and campsites on the south end of the park have bear warnings issued. Campsite 113 is closed due to bear activity. Bear “scat” is abundant on the trail. Jazz scat is lacking.
Several hours and 3 sweat-liters later, I reached the Shuckstack firetower and made the requisite climb to the top. The views were fully worth the climb.
The National Park Service requires all backcountry hikers to use an online system to register and reserve spots at the various shelters along the AT. Its their way of managing numbers and preserving low-impact natural environments. The problem with this system is that you have to fully plan your entire hike, along with where you are going to spend each night, up to a month in advance. I initially predicted a very conservative six day hike with stops at shelters spaced about 12-15 miles apart. My first day was an all-uphill 11 mile climb to Mollies Ridge shelter.
I arrived at Mollies Ridge shelter at about 2:30 in the afternoon – far too early to quit for the day. I had a decision to make: be compliant to my plan; be a conformist; follow the rules; keep to my registration and hiking schedule that I filed with the Park Service by staying at Mollies Ridge … OR … be a rebel and hike to the next shelter.
I continued hiking.
So now I am at Russell Field Shelter as a fugitive from justice. I am on the lam from the Park Service. Backpacking anarchy!!!
Also here are two married couples and two other guys. The married couples are from Cincinnati and are somewhat locally famous as twin brothers who married sisters. I think the two other guys are also brothers.
Tomorrow’s plan is to hike to Derrick Knob Shelter, but with my newfound defiance, who knows where I’ll end up?
Doctor Photon